Ford Escape Radiator Cooling Fan Fuse And Relay Locatio Cooling fan 1 relay: 30b — starter relay: 30c — cooling fan main relay: 30d — cooling fan 2 relay: 31a — reverse lamp relay: 31b — not used: 31c — trailer tow left turn relay: 31d — trailer tow right turn relay: 31e — trailer tow park relay: 31f — liftgate latch relay: 32 — not used: 33 — pcm diode: 34 — start diode: 35:. Is your ford escape overheating? one or both of radiator cooling fans not working? it is time to check radiator fan fuses and relays as this is the most co.
2008 Ford Escape Cooling Fan Relay Location To check a fuse, look at the silver colored band inside the fuse. if the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. check the appropriate fuses before replacing any electrical components. notice. before replacing a fuse check that the key has been removed from the ignition and that all the services are switched off and or disengaged. The fuse and relay box for the cooling fan system in a ford escape is typically located under the hood, near the battery. look for a black box with several fuses and relays inside. symptom sign: some symptoms of a blown fuse or relay include the cooling fan not turning on, the fan only working at certain speeds, or no air blowing from the vents. My 2013 escape sel had a bad fan module, found one on rock auto problem solved. it started by the a c not cooling, which was the condenser not getting enough forced air over it. the module is about $150 or less new, including shipping. or you could find one on junker. not to hard to take off either, i took a vacuum tube off and then very gently. The "5 blade" relay must be in the socket labeled in the owner's manual as "30c cooling fan main relay". the evtm calls it the fan control (fc) relay. the other two relays are of the 4 pin variety. 5 pin relays could be used in place of the 4 pin versions if that's what you have, the extra pin would just be unused.
2008 Ford Escape Cooling Fan Relay Location My 2013 escape sel had a bad fan module, found one on rock auto problem solved. it started by the a c not cooling, which was the condenser not getting enough forced air over it. the module is about $150 or less new, including shipping. or you could find one on junker. not to hard to take off either, i took a vacuum tube off and then very gently. The "5 blade" relay must be in the socket labeled in the owner's manual as "30c cooling fan main relay". the evtm calls it the fan control (fc) relay. the other two relays are of the 4 pin variety. 5 pin relays could be used in place of the 4 pin versions if that's what you have, the extra pin would just be unused. Here are the most common ways a radiator fan can stop working: if the fan isn't running at all: blown fuse or malfunctioning relay. bad fan motor or wiring issue issue with the fan control module. issue with the coolant temperature sensor. obstructed fan blades. Conditions: air temperature 30 degrees f. front defrost button on. auto shut off mode was active (fuel saving mode). as some point along her 20 mile trip the radiator cooling fan came on. i thought this was odd due to the air temperature. at stops the engine shut off as expected. cooling fan continued to run.
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